Vermicomposting has the potential to be truly amazing. Whether seeking a more efficient method of removing food scraps or enhancing your fertilizing and soil game, this sustainable practice offers numerous benefits.

In this post, I’ll discuss the details and the how-to of vermicomposting.

Why Vermicomposting?

Vermicomposting creates less odour, is low maintenance, and can be cost-effective. Worms are incredible little creatures and can significantly help the garden. They can enhance the soil quality by doing what they do best – improving drainage, soil structure and nutrients. How? Their poop! (I’ll refer to it as worm castings in this article, lol).
Vermicomposting is also perfect for apartments or houses; worms thrive at room temperature, so they do best inside, and they don’t take up much room, making it a tremendous all-year-round way of composting.

Soil Matters

I would argue that soil is the best tool for a successful garden. Worm castings are one of the best soils you can get or have, and it doesn’t require much to help the plants in your garden. They also increase water capacity in soils that don’t hold water well, like sandy soils.

Vermicomposting multiplies the soil’s essential microbes (lacking in many of our soils), making it more bio-available for your plants. Fast-tracking the plant’s absorbing process while at the same time diminishing the microbes that aren’t useful or even harmful to your plants. It balances everything gently and effectively, making worms and castings an excellent tool for healing soil. They can also increase water capacity in soils that don’t hold water well, like sandy soils.

Where Do I Get Worms?

When choosing your worms, avoid using the ones in your yard. You’ll most likely pull up earthworms and other worms that may not do as well in a vermicomposting system.
You can go to your local bait store and pick them up there or online.

What Kind?

Now that you know where to get them from, you’ll need to know what kind. You can choose from a few different types, but I suggest using red wigglers—these are the most accessible and beginner-friendly. They also consume more significant amounts of waste than other worms.

How Much?

You can get as little or as much as you want (2-1000). Although you only need 2 to produce, just be mindful that if you go on the lower side, it’ll take longer for them to breed and get up to a number that will eat the compost you need in a week. I get about a pound, which is equivalent to 1000. It’s a good starting point, and with that many, they’re composting my scraps with ease.

Supplies You’ll Need For Vermicomposting

Worm bins can be easy and inexpensive. You can always choose an online setup or starter kit if you have the budget.
Either way, here’s a list of what you’ll need to get started:

• A bin with holes at the top or store-bought setup
• A drill/bit for drilling holes in the bin
• The worms
• Brown compost (shredded newspaper or cardboard, dry leaves, wood shavings)
• Dirt – I use organic soil or sprouting soil
• Your kitchen scraps

Fill your bin by adding a layer of soil (about 1/4 of the container), then mix in the dry bedding. Then you’re ready to add your scraps in on one side, cover them up with soil. Then finally your wiggly workers.

Choosing A Location For Vermicomposting

One of the best things about having a worm composting system is that it can be started and maintained anywhere. Whether in an apartment or a house, you can begin vermicomposting and getting great soil for your plants or sprouting. Where the worms are located in your home or apartment does matter, though. Worms like dark and quiet locations, so choosing an area that doesn’t get much activity is best. I’d recommend setting up their bin a closet, basement or garage (if you live somewhere warm enough).

They do best at 55-85 degrees Fahrenheit, so don’t keep them outside if your outside temperatures are outside this range —or bring them inside. If you choose an outside location, pick a shaded area to monitor closely and drill holes in the side so the rain doesn’t spike the humidity.

Just don’t forget about them!

Monitoring Moisture

Monitoring the balance of humidity, kitchen scraps, and temperature in your worm bin is essential. A suitable climate for your wiggly friends will ensure the worm bin works at its best and keeps odor at bay.

Worms need damp conditions to thrive but not too wet.
If you want to monitor moisture by hand, take a handful of soil and squeeze. It should feel like a wrung-out sponge, and no water shouldn’t be dripping from your hand. If it falls apart, it’s too dry. If you find your humidity is too high – you can add more brown bedding.

You can also get a hydrometer if you want to keep exact tabs. The moisture should be between 75% and 85%.

Feeding Your Worms

Now it’s finally time to feed your worms and start making vermicompost, but what do you feed them?
You can put almost anything you would in ordinary compost for the worms. I’ve included a PDF of a list of things you can feed them and things you should avoid so you can print and look back to if you need:

Now that you have your scraps, you can bury them on one side of the bin. This will attract the worms to eat on one side, making it easier to harvest from the other when the time comes. Put a smaller amount of food the first week, and check back daily to see how much your worms are going through with the amount you have. If it takes less than a week for them to finish what you gave them, then you can add more, and as they reproduce, they’ll be able to consume more. This part is just about experimenting and seeing what works for your worms.

When you add the food, cover it with the soil you put in the bin to deter flies and smell. Add brown compost to your scraps to help the worms digest more easily.

Harvest Time!

You did all that work and were patient… now it’s time to reap your rewards and collect some brown gold! How might you do that without collecting any of your workers? As mentioned above, if you feed on one side of the bin and rotate, do that every week. You’ll be able to harvest from the side they’re currently not eating from, and then if you’d like, you can sift it to make sure if there are any worms, they go back into their bin.

Depending on how many worms you started with, you can harvest in 3-6 months.

Closing Notes On Vermicomposting

Will it stink?
I understand the worry, usually when you think about compost decomposing on it’s own in your home – it’s easy to think it would have some smell. As long as you monitor and follow all the steps above and have thriving worms there should be no stink. If you do notice a smell, it’s actually a good indicator that you’re putting in more than they can chew.

Dealing With Escapees
You’ve just set up your worm bin and made a great home for your worms. You’ve noticed a couple trying to get out – don’t fret! This is actually quite normal in new setups, and you can reduce this from happening by putting a layer of damp newspaper on the top of their soil until they get used to being in their new home.

Let me know in the comments if you have any questions or concerns! Feel free to share your experiences with vermicomposting – I love hearing from others!